If you’re a fan of Indian food and British beer, a desi pub should be on your itinerary. Desi is the Sanskrit word for “homeland,” and here it refers to the India left behind by the publicans running their iteration of a British-Indian boozer. Desi pubs were first set up in the 1960s when the Indian diaspora needed to forge their own spaces after receiving a hostile “welcome” in normal pubs.

Today, there are about 200 desi pubs — the focus of my recently published book, “Desi Pubs: A Guide to British-Indian Pubs, Food & Culture” (Camra Books). Mainly concentrated in London and Birmingham, England, these desi pubs now offer an inclusive welcome to anyone who loves a mixed grill washed down with beer. Here are five that I recommend for your next trip to London.

For the best craft beer: The Gladstone Arms

Desi pubs are not known for their beer lineups, with many favouring macro lagers due to costs and drinkers’ preference. Luckily, at the Glad, they do things differently. Run by brother and sister team Gaurav and Meg, they pride conversation over everything else and, in a very un-London way, will introduce newcomers to locals. The latter are craft beer drinkers, and the pub takes advantage of its Borough location near the Bermondsey Beer Mile to pour a selection of London’s finest beers, so you’re spoiled for choice when pairing beverages with the pub’s famous food (think: British pies but with chicken tikka, paneer or keema fillings).

For the best traditional experience: The Scotsman

Southall is probably the most known desi area in Britain, made famous by Hindi films such as “Goal” and Brit flicks like “Bend It Like Beckham.” The real key to its success, though, is how Sikhs, Muslims and Christians here live in post-Partition harmony, and the Scotsman mirrors this sense of inclusion. On any given day you’ll find white cockney builders sharing jokes with Sardar (Sikh) uncles, as the newer generations tear jumbo naans while watching football or cricket on TV. The naans are truly jumbo and served hanging from a skewer like the catch of the day, perfect with the pub’s delectable chicken lollipops.

For the best contemporary pub: The Tamil Crown

In Islington, the Tamil Crown, whose menu is based on Malaysian and Singaporean street food, is the latest in a long line of outlets that started with Roti King in Euston. The owners also opened the nearby Tamil Prince, which has been a huge success, especially with Instagram influencers claiming it’s the first Indian pub. This demand means the Prince has to be bookings-only, and sittings are short. Not only is the Tamil Crown bigger, but it also has a bar, making it an ideal place to sample fluffy roti, graze on okra fries and people-watch.

For the best African influence: The Regency Club

At the Regency Club in Queensbury, there’s an open kitchen where you can watch the chefs attend to the BBQ grill, the resulting aroma mingling with the scents of sandalwood, vanilla and cloves from incense sticks. The idea is to create the feel of a members’ club and to whisk guests back to pre-independence Kenya, where the Indian Gujarati founders of the Regency hail from. The food here has influences from both Asia and Kenya — the chilli mogo, a traditional Kenyan-style dish, is so popular that 36,000 servings are sold a year.

For the best mixed grill: The Black Horse

If you don’t like a stack of fiery marinated meat, cooked on a bed of onions and brought sizzling to your table, look away now. The Black Horse, a desi pub in Eastcote, is renowned for the mixed grill, which usually consists of a pile of chicken tikka pieces, tandoori chicken wings, kebabs and lamb chops. It’s the ultimate pub food and shares well, especially when you’re watching sport on TV or about to head to a football stadium with your mates (and want to shun the usually expensive and inferior fare sold there). Chef Toni Jaurre has been serving his excellent charred creations for a few years, elevating the dining experience in what might seem like a humble modern pub setting.